I'm ensconced in my favourite spot on a chaise longue, one of two, overlooking the beach. The early morning sky takes on a ripe apricot glow as the sun begins to climb. Sunbeams strike the dark rocks of the Killcare headlands, painting them gold. Rows of blue-green waves rise up like moving folds in rumpled taffeta, then peak and smash on the shore sending long tongues of white froth racing up the sand. The foam is iridescent in the bright morning sun.